![]() I also have the hydro oil cooler in the factory location, and based on the approximate radiator air outlet temperature, it makes sense to me that the hydro would be stabilized to about 180F. It was about 86F out that day, and the coolant temp was stabilized to about 200F. I monitored the hydro oil after an hour of mowing a few days ago and it was 180F at the filter book says highest allowable continuous operating temperature is 200F, so I'm still in the clear. Especially since it says only to run Low vis below 86F per Randy's first post. However, just this week in fact I thought maybe of switching due to the temperature range of regular Hy-Guard, and the frequency with which I'm mowing in hot weather vs plowing snow. I'm thankful it didn't hit us, it would have ruined us since we don't have insurance on our place.īoth my 332 and 955 have Low Vis up in Michigan. I've never seen wire pushed out so far into fields, even after tornadoes. We drove down a gravel road that had miles of power poles snapped off and pushed way out into corn fields. Wind likes to play with barns with empty hay mows, more so than full barns it seems. Our neighbor wasn't so lucky, they lost the biggest 125 year old (at the time) barn in this county. ![]() Made a mess of the trees protecting the barn and in the wind break timber but all our buildings survived unscathed. We had one sweep across us from the north once. Houses got damaged more by flying debris/tree parts it appeared, but that's just the small amount we saw. Interestingly enough most of the houses we saw fared pretty good, just barns, pole buildings, and other outbuildings seemed to get the worst of the direct wind damage. Soybeans didn't look bad, that doesn't mean they weren't damaged though. Entire corn fields flatter than I've ever seen them in the 32 years I've lived in this state. From Vinton south about 20 miles (as far south as we went before it got dark) the damage just got worse at each farm on hwy 218. We went down to do a look-see (rubbernecking) late afternoon Wednesday. John Deere HY-Gard™ (J20C) transmission oil atĬhevron, amsoil, and Lubrication Engineers all make a synthetic that meets both J20C and D.I am about 40 miles north of it's northern edge. Important: Avoid Damage! Transaxle is filled with Recommended oil air temperature ranges may cause Use the appropriate oil viscosity based on the air BIO-Hy-Gard when a biodegradable transmission/.The following oil is also recommended if above preferred oil The following John Deere oil is PREFERRED: Provide maximum protection for the hydraulic system. Specially formulated for operation below -18☌ (0)☏ to John Deere Low Viscosity Hy-Gard transmission oil is Use Hy-Gard™ (J20C) or Low Viscosity Hy-Gard (J20D) These machines are equipped with a internal wet discĭo not use type “F” automatic transmission fluid. Something I found interesting is that the owners manual states that Low Vis (J20D) is preferred and High vis (J20C) is acceptable but my version of the technical manual has it the other way around, stating that the High vis (J20C) is preferred. I don't really know that it's made a difference but I can say that I feel better. I usually start it and let it idle at ~1800 RPMs for a full 5 minutes before I use it. I haven't had any trouble, but the hydro does whine more when cold. Though it does get down to 0 deg here in the winter I decided to make the swap last summer to the J20C. I run it hard in 90 deg plus heat and worried about the low vis fluid offering enough protection.
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